Last night, 70 of the world’s most celebrated French chefs gathered at Georges Blanc Parc & Spa in Vonnas, France, to celebrate Relais & Châteaux’s 60th anniversary. There were frog legs, foie gras, langoustines, the famous Poulet de Bresse, and of course, oceans of Dom Pérignon and Château d’Yquem. With a total of 54 Michelin stars in one room, it seemed like the right time and place to ask les grands chefs one inappropriate and pretty much impossible question: What is the one dish in Paris that is better than sex? Chefs being chefs (and most being men), everyone roared, “Mais Non! Nothing is better than sex!” But with enough, um, caressing, we managed to pull a few answers out of them …
Oliver Roellinger, Les Maisons de Bricourt
“This is not a fair question! Okay, give me the sweetbread at Le Baratin and we’re getting close ….”
Jean-Andre Charial, Oustau de Baumanière & Spa
“The one and only canard au sang at La Tour D’Argent.”
Peter Tempelhoff, The Cellars-Hohenort Hotel
“The Shabu Shabu at Takara — Paris’s oldest Japanese restaurant. I have to say, it comes pretty close to great sex.”
Michel Trama, TRAMA
“Haricots verts grown by a grandfather, cooked by a grandmother, and eaten by a son. Or the feeling – not necessarily the food — you get at Hôtel Costes.”
Patrick O’Connell, The Inn at Little Washington
“The mashed potatoes and tiny baby lamb with a sprig of rosemary and jus at l’Atelier de Joël Robuchon. But a shout-out to the chicken-only Le Coq Rico, too.”
Ilario Mosconi, Restaurant Mosconi
“Anything with tartufo bianco D’alba prepared at Alain Ducasse.”
Alexandre Gauthier, La Grenouillère
“It is not possible. But if I must answer, the first taste of a new macaron flavor at Pierre Hermé. Or any dish Le Comptoir — because there you can eat while dreaming and desiring, right in the center of Paris. Or — a pizza from Roberta’s in Bushwick … but wait, that’s not Paris.
Patrick Henriroux, La Pyramide
“The foie gras with coquillages at Passage 53. The plate is filled with intense emotion.”
Mauro Colagreco, Mirazur
“The lobster en vin jaune at Alain Passard … that is, somewhat, near to sex.”
George Blanc, Georges Blanc Parc & Spa
“Nothing is better! And my wife is here, so I cannot answer! But some might say a great meal at La Dame de Pic, because her food is inspired by sensual parfum. You should ask Daniel [Boulud] – he staged here 40-years ago!”
